The grape, borne of Bordeaux, had the genetic make-up of a blue-blooded trust-fund globetrotter. Unlike its greatest rival/ marriage partner Cabernet Sauvignon, adaptable, blendable Merlot buds and ripens early, has large, thin skinned berries resulting in lower acid and tannin, and easily achieves high yields.
At one time, one of the most popular red wine varietals on the globe due to its pleasant berry fruit, accessible softness and plush mouthfeel, Merlot appealed to many tastes and many demographics. It rose to the top of the North American wine world in the 1980’s, achieving success with both California cult classics and Washington State pioneers. Merlot flooded the markets, and producers capitalized on the grape’s popularity with quick-to-market, uninspired wines. And then, regal Merlot was smacked Sideways. In the wine geek chic 2004 movie Sideways, Pinot Noir-loving protagonist Miles tells his buddy that “if anyone orders Merlot, I'm leaving. I am NOT drinking any fucking Merlot!” The Sideways Effect swept Merlot off its velvet throne, and many winemakers have had to scramble over the years since to reinvent and reinstate.
When Merlot isn’t smothered with oak, over cropped or left on the vine past its ripeness date, it produces a medium bodied red with deep raspberry, plum, mulberry, fruitcake and mocha. Popular as ever in maritime Bordeaux (the most planted red grape there), it is also gaining acclaim in other cooler microclimates.
